Downtown Antananarivo (Tana), Madagascar
Madagascar was never a place I dreamed of visiting. It is not on the typical travel bucket list that dominates Pinterest boards and travel vlogs. However, in mid-2025, my wife, Yothando, and I ended up booking our December holiday there, hoping to discover an ideal tourist destination.
Like mainland African, Madagascar is a country of contradictions; beautiful yet deeply complex. It’s full of promise but struggles with significant underdevelopment. The trip prompted us to think critically about the systems that hinder the development of African nations and the immense, enduring strength found in culture, community, and the land itself.
Our vacation turned into a learning experience.
From the bustling capital of Antananarivo to the flood-affected coast of Morondava – from playful encounters with lemurs to witnessing the Malagasy people’s ability to hold onto joy amidst hardship – the journey proved that growth isn’t always linear. Sometimes, it is an expansion of perspective.
The most interesting part is that the trip was completely unplanned. It was Yotha’s suggestion, and after some initial hesitation, I agreed. Few people visit or talk about Madagascar, making it feel like an exciting, special wildcard decision.
However, an unexpected crisis occurred: a coup broke out in September/October, just months before we were due to fly.
We cancelled our accommodation but held onto our non-refundable flights. As we continued with our wedding preparations, we monitored the situation closely, waiting and hoping. When things appeared to stabilize, we decided to take the risk and commit to the trip.
That is a story of how we flew to a country we never intended to visit, a decision that ultimately sparked a deeper sense of purpose within us.
First scene: Antananarivo (Tana)
Antananarivo – or Tana as it is locally known – met us with a deluge of rain. The city was a chaotic, vibrant scene, teeming with life, but not the polished, Instagrammable kind. It felt gritty, unrefined, and raw.
A walk through Tana’s suburbs
We were not in a rush to explore. Exhausted from a demanding 2025, we were seeking escape and rest. For the majority of our week in Tana, we remained indoors, finding solace in reflection, TV, reading, and simply letting the quiet restore us.
We did venture out one evening to experience the Malagasy nightlife, landing at a club called Taxi Be. The atmosphere was a blend of Jamaican sounds, Afrobeats, and local Malagasy rhythms. It was enjoyable, though we stood out – not due to any misbehaviour, but simply by being different.
The Malagasy people we met possessed very distinct features: earthy, smoother complexions, with naturally silky black or dark brown hair. In contrast, we were darker-skinned with nappy hair. Yotha’s outfit also drew attention; she wasn’t dressed like the other women who were fully made up for the club. We noticed the subtle, and sometimes open, stares; however we were always treated with kindness. Theo, a waiter from the Radisson Hotel, joined us to ensure we had a safe and positive experience at Taxi Be.
However, the most lasting impression was not the nightlife, but the inequality we witnessed in Tana.
Unlike the distinct wealth disparity seen in places like Sandton in Johannesburg, South Africa, Tana is defined by deep-rooted inequality. Extreme luxury and deep poverty coexist side-by-side. Our upscale hotel, next to a shopping mall, was largely surrounded by informal settlements. This illustrated the lack of structured zoning and the severe imbalance in wealth distribution, a reality where people are forced to make a living wherever and however they can.
It left us with inescapable questions:
- How can a place naturally abundant with water lack clean water?
- How can a land so fertile struggle with food security?
- How can a country so rich with potential face intense hardship?
Second scene: Morondava
Our post-Christmas journey took us from Tana on a one-hour flight to Morondava on the west coast. The terrible weather made for a challenging journey; the take-off was rainy, and the landing was even worse. We spent over an hour circling the airport, waiting for the runway to clear. The pilot was forced to land when the fuel level became low. At that moment, as if by divine intervention, the weather broke, allowing for a safe landing.
Our immediate impression upon arrival: “More rain”. The evidence of heavy rain was everywhere, turning the roads and paths into muddy puddles. This immediately brought back the question we had been pondering in Tana: How is this a normal way of life?
We were initially disappointed with the hotel we had checked into. After a room switch, lunch, and a short time by the pool, we walked along the beach. It was then we saw the Vezo Beach Hotel – the place we had originally booked but cancelled following the coup. We inquired inside and found they had vacancies. My wife, eager to experience its vibrant atmosphere, prompted our immediate move.
Morondava coastline from Vezo Beach
The Morondava coastline, situated along the Mozambique Channel, is not the picturesque beach scene one might expect. The Morondava river flows into the ocean here, and heavy rains often cause it to flood the beach, creating a false coastline. This causes the brown, muddy river water to remain separate from the rich blues and greens of the Indian Ocean.
At first, we were concerned by the polluted look of the coast. However, we soon realized it was simply the flooded river water failing to mix with the salty ocean. The boundary between the two distinct waters was remarkably clear. Still hoping for a classic beach experience, we walked until we found a spot entirely beyond the river’s influence – a stretch of pure ocean. We paused there, waves washing over our feet, appreciating this unexpected little gem in an otherwise ordinary setting.
Lemurs, Baobabs, and a Taste of Magic
Our visit began with a local guide, Lea, who led us on a tour of Kimony Resort and the awe-inspiring Allée des Baobabs, also known as the Avenue of the Baobabs.
Kimony Resort lemurs like to move it, move it…
For Yotha, a major highlight was finally seeing the iconic black and white lemur, whose look inspired King Julien in the Madagascar movie. While she found the brown lemurs we also spotted to be underwhelming, the entire experience of interacting with them was a genuine thrill.
As for the avenue itself, it was simply magical.
Allée des Baobabs
We were surrounded by baobabs that are over 800 years old. These ancient, spiritual trees towered over us, and we could feel the weight of history as we walked through the alley. Although heavy cloud cover obscured the sunset, we managed to capture a few brilliant photos between the crowds when a few rays of sunlight broke through. The overall experience was unforgettable. It didn’t feel like a typical tourist spot; it felt untouched – something we had never seen and may never see again.
Magical Allée des Baobabs
What If…
As our journey concluded, we kept discussing the potential of Madagascar (and Africa)…
Places like Morondava, for example, possess the foundational elements – restaurants, well rated resorts, and ample space – to rival established tourist hubs such as Paje in Zanzibar or Diani (Mombasa) in Kenya. Yet, significant investment is missing: there are no major activities like water sports, and little large-scale investment beyond tourist accommodation.
The frustrating reality is that this lack of development is not due to a lack of resources:
- Sun: Enough for extensive solar power to be a national energy solution
- Fertile Land: Abundant enough to ensure food security and national self-reliance through agriculture
- Green Minerals: Rich deposits of minerals like graphite and cobalt offer a path to integrate into critical global supply chains, such as renewable energy and automotive industries
- Strategic Location: Its proximity to mainland Africa and South-East Asia could establish Madagascar as a viable trading route
Despite this abundance, the nation suffers from limited operational systems, corrupt leadership, and ambition that lacks a cohesive vision. This unfulfilled potential is the most painful observation – it simply doesn’t have to be this way.
This environment of blocked opportunities, rooted in privilege and nepotism, is precisely what fuelled the successful coup. The Malagasy youth were tired of the status quo: the lack of jobs, poor infrastructure, and needless hardship that stems from limited options for a better life.
Protests of change, October 2025; Source – BBC
A country so blessed with natural wealth should not be struggling with food insecurity. Instead, it should be a leader in clean water technology, advanced agriculture, and mineral processing. It should be an exporter of goods, services, technology, and talent – not a magnet for foreign aid that only deepens corruption, worsens debt, and erodes the agency of the Malagasy people.
Why Madagascar is a timely reminder?
The most lasting impression of our trip was how much the inequality resonated on a personal level.
As young Africans and first generation graduates, our parents, families, and peers are familiar with hardship. We have lived with blackouts, water shortages, underfunded schools, and crumbling infrastructure. We witnessed our parents’ relentless effort to secure a better future for us – working, sacrificing, and utilising every resource and community support they could access.
Now, standing on their shoulders and travelling the African continent, seeing these same struggles persist in the parallel lives of the Malagasy people brought a dreadful, familiar sense of failure – a failure of development at the cost of the African people.
This experience powerfully reminded us why we care.
- Why we create.
- Why we invest in our communities.
- Why we push beyond existence to create impact.
Our vision is a developed Africa, a leading Africa – a continent that thrives not just as an idea, but as a tangible reality.
For Yotha and I, this journey became an urgent reminder: We refuse to simply discuss change, we are driven to live it. We are dedicated to building lives, platforms, and businesses that actively contribute to the Africa we know is attainable.
This commitment matters more than any destination, photo, or story. This is the truth that has stayed with us long after we unpacked our bags.
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Bye…
